By: Abraham Mengistu

In 2022, online fashion company Shein generated over $22 billion. On average, Shein adds 2000 new items to its online store daily. As demand for fast fashion grows, one may raise concerns over fast fashion’s impact, both ethical and environmental. What defines fast fashion? We will discuss fast fashion’s environmental impact, recent trends, and sustainability practices.

What is Fast Fashion?

Fast fashion refers to cheap, trendy garments influenced by popular designs of the moment. For example, Vox reported that lead times from design to finished product can be as little as three days. Part of what influences the cheap price of fast fashion garments is that they are produced in bulk. 

Understanding Fast Fashion’s Impact on the Environment 

There is waste in every stage of the garment manufacturing process. Waste can occur during textile spinning, weaving, dyeing, and finishing, as well as after the garment has been made. In North America, there are about 10 million tonnes of textile waste that end up in landfills annually.

The production process also consumes a lot of energy. Fuel is required for the machinery used for plowing and harvesting raw materials. Electricity is needed for industrial machinery, lighting, office equipment, and temperature control. Oil is used for boilers that generate steam. The fashion industry accounts for 2-4% of global emissions.

Unused textile waste isn’t the only part of the process that impacts the environment. The chemicals used on textiles also have a negative environmental impact. The harsh chemicals can leach into the soil and nearby bodies of water. According to a 2014 report by the World Bank, at least 72 toxic chemicals are used in the dyeing process. When these chemicals get into water bodies, they lower oxygen levels within the water, significantly impacting aquatic ecosystems. Agricultural environments which use polluted water for irrigation are also affected. 

Insights from UNESCO’s Report on African Fashion

Africa, which has plenty of raw materials, is a significant source of textile materials. There are $15.5 billion worth of textiles exported annually. As for imports, there are $23.3 billion worth of textiles. It is worth noting that most of the continent’s population is under 25 years old. With a young population, demand for “Made in Africa” is increasing amongst African fashion consumers.

In October 2023, UNESCO released a report on the growth of the fashion industry in Africa. UNESCO emphasized the challenges facing Africa’s fashion sector and highlighted the necessity of environmental standards. Cotton fiber production in Africa rose by 90% between 2019 and 2020. Without proper recycling channels, about 40% of garments produced will end up in landfills, rivers, and oceans. 

The UNESCO report also highlighted fast fashion’s economic impact on Africa. A third of secondhand fashion exports go to Africa, which poses a challenge to local domestic fashion businesses. However, it is important to note that clothing reuse lowers a garment’s impact on the environment. According to a 2017 study in the Journal of Cleaner Production, quadrupling a garment’s lifespan resulted in a 75% savings in freshwater. 

As demand for fashion grows, so will the environmental impact. Local economies must thrive while minimizing environmental impact as they expand clothing production. 

Spotlight on African Fashion Trends

Africa is a growing hub of fashion innovation. African designers are in a unique position. They can blend their cultural heritage with sustainable practices, which has a net positive impact on their communities and the rest of the world. According to Style Terrain, a Lagos-based fashion platform, African designers are reimagining fashion. 

African Fashion Designers are embracing traditional craftsmanship and incorporating ancient techniques into new designs. They are also prioritizing ethical production methods. They are using eco-friendly materials and adopting a “slow fashion” philosophy. Designers are creating long-lasting, timeless garments produced with sustainability in mind.

An article by Fashion Africa Now’s Elvis Kachi also highlights trends in African fashion in 2024. One trend will be a rise in the merging of fashion and tech. African designers will blend traditional craftsmanship with modern technology to create beautiful pieces, highlighting the adaptability of Africa’s fashion scene. 

Sustainability will also be an essential pillar of African fashion brands. African designers get inspiration from traditional principles that promote upcycling and ethical sourcing. There has also been an increase in artisanal craftsmanship in African fashion, helping African fashion brands differentiate their brands from mass-produced fashion. 

Kachi also mentions that social learning will be a driving force for industry relations. African designers increasingly participate in fashion weeks, events, and online communities, providing their brand exposure and supporting an exchange of ideas.

Solutions to Fashion’s Environmental Impact

While the fashion industry is a known polluter, we can take steps to reduce its environmental impact. Both fashion brands and fashion consumers have the power to incorporate sustainable practices. 

Fashion brands: 

• Can be sustainable Can incorporate the use of sustainable materials. These include recycled and upcycled, bio-based, and naturally biodegradable materials. Using these materials will reduce carbon emissions and land and water use. 
• Can conserve water They can minimize their water consumption during the production process by using more sustainable materials that require less water.
• Can be safe and healthy They can avoid using harmful chemicals in their production process. Brands can use suppliers that are transparent in what types of chemicals they use and what impact chemicals may have on the environment. 

Fashion consumers: 

• Can vote with our dollar You can purchase slow fashion, which is a fashion item that is durable, ethical, and long-lasting. Purchasing long-lasting clothing can reduce the demand for buying new clothes. Decreased demand for fastly-produced clothing will lower the fashion industry’s environmental impact. 
• Can support sustainability Consumers can follow and support brands that take sustainability seriously. If consumers support sustainable brands over non-sustainable brands, the wider industry will be encouraged to change its practices. 

Sustainable Brand Spotlight: Mayamiko

Mayamiko is a Malawian womenswear brand established by Paola Masperi. It incorporates ethics, sustainable fashion practices, and traditional artisanship into its clothing line. Mayamiko uses organic and sustainable materials and environmentally friendly production methods. 

As part of its brand, Mayamiko uses sustainable materials. For example, Mayamiko’s Botanical Collection uses plant-dyed fabrics. These fabrics are dyed using food waste, a natural method that is much better than harmful artificial dyes. Mayamiko also produces garments made of linen. Linen requires little water during its production and is a durable fiber, which contributes to garments’ longevity. Mayamiko also creates soaps and lip balms that use locally sourced ingredients.

Besides using sustainable materials, Mayamiko incorporates sustainability practices in its garment production. In particular, Mayamiko produces its limited edition garments on demand. This practice limits overproduction, which is a source of waste material. Mayamiko’s designs are meant to be worn throughout the year, regardless of the season. 

The Urgent Need for Sustainable Fashion

The fast-fashion industry is growing significantly, influenced by increased consumer appetites. This growth highlights the urgent need to address its environmental impact. From excessive waste to harmful chemicals, fashion’s toll is undeniable. UNESCO’s report on African fashion demonstrates the importance of environmental and economic sustainability. Designers, fashion brands, and consumers can all take the lead in adopting sustainable practices.

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Author Bio: Abraham Mengistu studied Supply Chain Management at Western Michigan University. In his free time, he enjoys watching action shows, reading, and learning new things.